While hiking Muliwai Trail won’t make you a king, you will have trekked where ancient royalty once trod.
The hike takes you across the Waipio Valley, which means “Valley of the Kings in Hawaiian.” Waipio Valley was once home to Hawaiian “alii” (royalty) until the reign of King Umi-a-Liloa. Even after the reign of kings, the Waipio Valley was densely populated until a devastating tsunami in 1946 wreaked havoc. Today, only a tiny settlement remains.
The Muliwai Trail is 5.1 miles long “out-and-back” and traverses 2,100’ in elevation. Experienced hikers should only consider this hike due to the climbing involved and the challenging trail conditions.
If you research this trail, you’ll sometimes see it lumped with another hike that goes into the next valley, Waimanu. This is because they use the same trail system. The Muliwai-Waimanu hike is 19.9 miles, ascends 5,541’, and backpackers use it who camp overnight at Waimanu. We share this because it’s easy to get confused with different information when planning your hike.
Even though the Muliwai Trail is shorter, you’ll still need hiking boots, standard gear, water, and sun protection. Some hikers suggest bringing hiking poles for the steep ascent and descent. The safest time to attempt the hike is at low tide, which we’ll explain shortly.
The trailhead to Muliwai Trail is at the parking lot of the Waipio Overlook. Parking spaces are limited, so you may have to park on the road. Be sure you’re not blocking a driveway or on someone’s property.
You’ll have a good view of the Waipio Valley from the overlook. While you won’t be able to see Hiilawe Falls to the rear of the valley, you’ll appreciate the scope of what you’re about to tackle.
From this bird’s eye view, you’ll spot the crescent-shaped beach and the blue Pacific Ocean lapping the black sand. Such beauty the Hawaiians aptly named Muliwai, which means “curved water.”
On the opposite side of the valley, 1.3 miles away, is the tall mountain that Muliwai Trail ascends. Although you won’t see it from this distance, the trail forms a “Z” on the side of the hill. Locals sometimes call Muliwai Trail by this nickname: The Z Trail.
To start your adventure, walk down the 3/4 of a mile paved road to the beach. But we use the word “paved” loosely because the tarmac is eroded, narrow, and extremely steep. The majority of the road has a 25% gradient while some points are 40%. Don’t be tempted to drive down this road, especially if you have a rental. Hikers report that there are shuttle and horseback companies that can assist in getting you up and down this challenging road.
When you reach the bottom, hike west a 1/2 mile to the black sand beach, and follow the shoreline until you come to the Waipio River. We suggested hiking at low tide because there’s more beach available for you to navigate your crossing. Also, if it has rained recently, the Waipio River can be dangerous with swift currents and deeper waters.
Once across the river, continue along the beach toward the cliffs rising from the beach. When you get closer, you should be able to spot the trail’s Z-formation higher on the cliffs. To begin your ascent, find the state signs marking the trailhead.
Now comes the work! You’ll be ascending a steep, narrow path with switchbacks up about 1,000.’ You can enjoy the view at the summit and remember: the trail continues onward but only for those hiking to Waimanu Valley.
But “All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy!” So when you have picture-perfect views of Waipio Valley and Hiilawe, savor the moment. When you’re ready to head back, retrace your steps down the mountain to the beach, fjord the river, and hike (or hail a taxi!) up the steep road to the Waipio Overlook parking lot.
If you’re up for a challenging hike with rewarding views and have packed and planned carefully, we believe you’ll love trekking the Muliwai Trail.
Insider Tip:
Some hikers hitched a ride down to ground level instead of hiring a shuttle at the Waipio Overlook. While we can’t endorse this practice, have some cash on hand to tip if you consider this option. Also, depending on the depth and condition of the Waipio River, other travelers suggest removing your boots to cross.